**Note:
We usually don't recommend replacing existing grid powered pumps
with solar. Solar pumps are best used when grid power is too far
away and too expensive. If you want to go green and go solar, we
recommend adding solar panels to your home and grid-tie them to
your electric company. You will get the most "bang for your
buck" in today's solar marketplace. |
We actually got our start in solar with solar water pumps. 1988 to 1990
in Morocco, we installed 14 village sized solar pumping systems and 2
wind pumping systems. As important as electricity may seem, water is essential
to life. Bringing life giving water from under the ground using only the
power of the sun or wind is very rewarding. It has also been full of trials
and tribulations. We have installed, pulled and reinstalled enough pumps
to learn.
Many solar pumps are available on today's market, but we are very conservative
in what we recommend, sell, and service. Because water is so important,
we are not willing to gamble with unreliable products on our customers'
lives. While efficiency is important, reliability is foremost. Unfortunately,
a more reliable pump is less efficient and vice versa.
Existing Well and Pump? Please scroll down this page to the checklist.
What SolarRay needs to know to help get you started with solar
PV water pumping:
1. What is your water source?
Obviously, this depends on your site. If considering a well, check with
neighbors to find out how deep other wells in the area are. Here are the
choices:
Rain Catch Cistern: Low cost, rain water itself is very soft (low
in minerals), & environmentally friendly. Downside, is that you must
haul water when it doesn't rain (very environmentally unfriendly), Depending
on roof type,etc. everything nasty ends up washing into the cistern. Water
must be treated for drinking.
Shallow Well, Spring: wells under 20 ft deep and springs can be
excellent sources, but be careful that surface water can't wash in and
contaminate the water. Consider water treatment for drinking.
Medium depth Well: for wells up to 200 ft deep, many pump choices
are available. With modern casings and well caps, contamination is rarely
a problem.
Deep Well: for wells 200 ft to 450 ft, the pump choices go down,
while the cost of the well and the pump system can exceed $10,000. Contamination
is rarely a problem with the well itself.
Very Deep Well: for wells over 450 ft, you have fewer choices still.
Well drilling & pump costs combined can exceed $20,000. Contamination
is rarely a problem with the well itself.
2. What is the water for?
Residential: domestic water supply provides water to faucets
at sinks and bath, etc. throughout the house. Usually best to power pump
from the house solar power system.
Livestock or irrigation: water is pumped to an open stock tank
for animals or to gardens, etc.
Specialty use: this includes fountain pumps, floor heating circulator
pumps, and pumps for solar hot water systems.
3. Which Power Sources?
**Note: We usually don't recommend replacing existing grid powered pumps
with solar. Solar pumps are best used when grid power is too far away
and too expensive. If you want to go green and go solar, we recommend
adding solar panels to your home and grid-tie them to your electric company.
You will get the most "bang for your buck" in today's solar
marketplace.
Solar Direct (DC): Most DC pumps can be powered directly from
the solar modules (usually with a controller), this method is known as
array direct. For stand alone systems like irrigation & livestock
, or if the well is more than 500 ft from other power sources, this is
the best.
Battery powered (AC or DC): We usually recommend running pumps
from the main solar system of the house. Water can be pumped day or night,
and all solar panels are combined into one main house power system. DC
pumps use less power (sometimes 1/4 of an AC model), and don't require
an inverter. Unfortunately, they are not as reliable. AC pumps
use more power, require a large inverter and batteries to start, but are
reliable. They are also a good choice if running longer distances (over
100 ft).
Generator powered (AC): For very deep wells, some customers use
a conventional AC submersible pump and start the generator once a week
to fill a cistern. Obviously this not the most elegant or sustainable
method, but it is simple and reasonably reliable, especially for very
deep wells.
4. What Pump Type?
A plethora of pump types exist, but for simplicity, we will divide them
into these main categories:
Submersible Pump: This type of pump is water proof and is submerged
in the water. They are usually more expensive. All electrical connections
and motor are submerged as well. Examples: Grundfos SQ pump (AC), Dankoff
ETA pump DC, fountain pump.
Surface Pump: are not waterproof. They must be located in weatherproof
area near the water level, usually a pump pit or pump house. All electrical
parts are located away from the water. If the pump is too high above the
water level, these pumps will have suction problems that can make the
system unreliable or damage the pump. (See suction head & cavatation)
Examples: Shurflo pressure pump, Dankoff Flowlight pressure pump, hot
water circulator.
Jack Pump: is actually a mixture of the 2 types. The motor, gears,
& electrical are on the surface, but move a shaft (sucker rod) that
attaches to the pump which is submerged. Good for very deep wells.
Example: Solamotor Jack Pump
Existing Pump: Get us the specs, usually we recommend
you should keep it, and power it with a grid tied back up system.
5. Cisterns , Pressure tanks, & Water Treatment
If using rain catch or a low flow DC well pump, you will need a cistern,
an un-pressurized storage tank. A pressure pump then takes the water and
pressurizes it in a pressure tank for regular use at the faucets in the
house. The pressure tank holds 10 to 40 gallons of water against
an air filled bladder that pushes(pressurizes) the water to the faucet.
When the pressure drops, a pressure switch turns the pump on to recharge
the tank. This system maintains steady (city) water pressure and keeps
the pump from having to turn on every time someone washes their hands.
Gravity feed: Sometimes the cistern can be located on a hill above
the house and the water flows by gravity to the faucets. Typically it
needs to be at least 20 ft higher for adequate pressure, but this avoids
needing a pressure pump and pressure tank.
Water Treatment: The problem with cisterns whether they are open
top or sealed, underground, plastic, steel, or concrete, is that they
can become contaminated with airborne fecal bacteria. If you do decide
to use a cistern, you need to treat the water with chlorine on a regular
basis, & filter it with a 0.5 micron filter before drinking. An easy
solution for those not wanting to chlorinate is to buy 5 gal bottles of
drinking water, and use the cistern water for irrigation and washing.
Air bubbling systems can help maintain healthy cistern water by encouraging
aerobic bacteria. Anaerobic bacteria thrive without air, and can cause
the water to "go septic".
Pressure tanks store water without exposure to contaminates, so if clean
water goes into the system, clean water comes out. For domestic water
supply, we recommend a sealed well ( get the water tested to confirm purity)
with a large enough pump(usually AC) and power system to run directly
into a pressure tank.
Make your choice:
Residential ( battery powered
from house unless noted) |
Water
Source |
depth
to water |
DC
pressure pump |
AC
Submersible |
DC
submersible |
DC
Jack Pump |
Cistern
|
0
to 5 ft. |
Best |
OK
with deep cistern, or long wire run |
NO |
Not
recommended |
Spring
or shallow well |
5
to 20 ft. |
OK
if pump is placed within 5 ft of water level |
Best,
use with inverter
& transformer, pump direct to pressure tank |
OK |
Not
recommended |
Medium
well |
20
to 200 ft. |
NO |
Best,
use with inverter
& transformer, pump direct to pressure tank |
OK |
Not
recommended |
Deep
well |
200
to 450 ft |
May
be needed as 2nd pump to pressurize water from cistern |
Best,
use with inverter
& transformer, pump direct to pressure tank |
OK
with 2nd pressure pump |
Not
recommended |
Very
deep well |
450
to 1200 ft |
May
be needed as 2nd pump to pressurize water from cistern |
Use
generator, or multiple inverters |
NO |
Nood
if pumping to cistern |
Livestock
& Irrigation (powered array direct, unless noted) |
Water Source |
depth to water |
DC pressure
pump |
AC Submersible |
DC submersible |
DC Jack Pump |
Spring or shallow
well |
5 to 20 ft. |
Good if pump is
placed within 5 ft of water level |
OK if using Grundfos
SQFlex submersible array direct |
OK |
Not recommended |
Medium well |
20 to 200 ft. |
No |
OK if using Grundfos
SQFlex submersible array direct |
OK |
Not recommended |
Deep well |
200 to 450 ft |
No |
OK if using Grundfos
SQFlex submersible array direct |
OK |
OK for less than 500 gal/
day |
Very deep well |
450 to 1200 ft |
No |
Use generator,
or multiple inverters with batteries |
No |
Best |
|
Please, we need the following information before we
can help you.
**Note: We usually don't recommend replacing existing grid powered
pumps with solar. Solar pumps are best used when grid power is too
far away and too expensive. If you want to go green and go solar,
we recommend adding solar panels to your home and grid-tie them to
your electric company. You will get the most "bang for your buck"
in today's solar marketplace. |
1. |
|
Water source |
2. |
|
What the water is being used for: household, livestock, irrigation,
drip irrigation? |
3. |
|
Power source: Electrical power available: Grid power, existing solar
system (DC, 120Vac, or 240 VAC), no power at alls |
4. |
|
What pump type |
5. |
|
Cisterns , Pressure tanks, & Water Treatment |
6. |
|
Depth to water |
7. |
|
Total water needed per day |
8. |
|
Flow rate (gal/ min.) |
9. |
|
Total depth of well |
10. |
|
Pressure required (or height to storage tank) |
11. |
|
Please send us the specs of your existing pump. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Download a .doc file with this table. |
Please email the answers to these questions back to
us so we can better serve you and your pump needs. Email: support@solarray.com |
Hot water Circulators
Floor heating systems and solar hot water systems need special circulator
pumps to move the hot water. They are specially designed for high temperatures,
and low pressure. Many off grid homes have been built where the plumber
never worked with the solar designer. The results are disastrous. The
pumps and controls of the floor heating system drain the power system
overnight in times when you need the power the most: the dead of winter!
Waking up to a cold house with no power can be avoided however. For small
floor heating systems (under 1000 sq. ft) a 10 to 20 watt DC circulator
with a regular gas fired hot water heater works well for a fraction of
the electrical energy.
For larger homes with separate heating zones and boilers, we recommend
using AC circulators (the boiler can overheat if the pump doesn't move
enough water). But energy use can still be reduced by using DC thermostats
to control the system.
For solar hot water systems, DC circulators can often be run array
direct from their own dedicated solar module. These systems avoid many
expensive controls, and simply pump when the sun is shining and the solar
thermal is heating. In cold climates these systems require glycol to prevent
freeze damage. This adds a heat exchanger and additional complexity. Drain
back systems protect from freezing by draining the water out at night,
but they require much larger AC circulators to operate.
Link
to Catalog for Current Listings.
Other Solar Pumping Info: Dankoff
Introduction to Solar Pumping: Solar Tracking,
Inverter Sizing for AC Pumps, Cavatation, Adjusting System Pressure, Plumbing
Design:
Pipe Sizing Chart, Pressure & Flow Rate Chart, Solar Pump Glossary
Consultation fees for solar pumping will be applied and deducted from
pump purchases.
|